When patrons ask, “What’s panuozzo?” or Google ingredients like “nduja,” Giovanni Ilardi and Michael Purcell, the owners of Spettro, high-five each other because that was precisely their goal when they debuted their Italian-style gastropub in Poughkeepsie last December. They knew such questions would lead diners to try new things—such as the panuozzo, a sandwich made with pizza bread, panelle (Sicilian chickpea fritters), and nduja, a sausage paste—and expand their ideas of what an Italian restaurant can be.
“Some of these words send people to their phones,” says Purcell, who, like his business partner, began his career as a busboy at Shadows on the Hudson in Poughkeepsie. “They’re intrigued and have said that it’s nice to see something different. We took a risk, and it paid off.”
Though Spettro is built on Italian cuisine (calamari, pizza, pasta, and cannoli), its overall preparation is foundationally more authentic, according to Ilardi, whose father hails from Palermo. “When we were conceptualizing the restaurant, we didn’t want a red-sauce joint—with super-large portions and everything covered in tomato sauce. What we’re doing here is lighter-style food with a modern twist, using the highest-quality ingredients.”
Self-described gastronomes, Ilardi and Purcell have been friends since elementary school and sensed early on that they would one day do something food-based together. “My love for food really stems from growing up Italian, and it rubbed off on Mike,” Ilardi says.
Purcell, whose father was a chef early in his career, added that working as teens at Shadows was a “formative experience.” From there, Ilardi moved on to Schatzi’s in Poughkeepsie, and Zeus Brewing Co., where he was general manager.
The 18-month-long project enabled the pair to carefully consider all functional elements of the 2,400-square-foot restaurant that occupies a new mixed-use structure. “We got to pick every finish, and designed it to be more modern with natural woods and black tiles,” says Purcell.
Spettro has an open kitchen, giving diners a view of the custom-made, dome-shaped pizza oven and the chefs who pop in the pies. Manufactured by Brewster’s Fiero Forni, the oven cooks pizzas within three minutes.
Pizza is indeed the main attraction at Spettro, with nearly a dozen to choose from, including the glorified “King of Kings” garnished with prosciutto de parma, fior di latte, lemon zest, stracciatella, basil, and extra-virgin olive oil. The “Degausser” features a sesame-seed crust topped with San Marzano tomato sauce, fresh mozzarella, honey, spicy nduja, crisp bacon, and arugula.
“We spent a lot of time perfecting our dough recipe,” Ilardi notes. “We have a hybrid dough, a mixture of Neapolitan- and New York-style characterized by a fluffy base and crispy crust. Some of the cheeses are on the expensive side because we want to give our customers the best and an incredibly authentic experience.”
The same goes for everything else on the menu, including a 10-ounce bone-in pork chop with an espresso crust and pastas like pistachio pesto bucatini with preserved lemon, basil, and Parmigiana Reggiano.
Ilardi and Purcell tapped CIA grad Lauren Coleman as head chef; she had previously worked at Woodstock’s Cucina and Market Street in Rhinebeck. Beverage manager Amelia Bucher (Schatzi’s, Zeus Brewing Co., Goodnight Kenny) helms the cocktail list that incorporates Italian aperitifs and amaro. Consider the “Shapeshifter” made with Italian gin, fresh lime juice, cucumber, and honey, or an aperitif seasoned with artichokes and basil.
Additionally, the bar features Italian wines from boutique distributors, including a Rosato from a vineyard on Mount Etna and a white from Lugano.
For Sunday brunch there are classics made Italian style. Think semolina pancakes with homemade lemon curry and fresh blueberries, or Spettro benedict, with a poached egg atop sourdough and garnished with house-made bearnaise sauce and crispy speck.
Ilardi and Purcell say they’re pleased with how Spettro came together. “It’s all so cohesive,” says Purcell, “When you have enough time to plan things out, it really shows.”
Spettro
44 Lagrange Ave., Poughkeepsie
845.442.3001
Website
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