The Hudson Valley has plenty of chic spots to enjoy a refreshing Riesling or dry Cabernet, but how many of them are intensely local, determined to share the region’s best vintages, while showcasing the work of nearby artists?
Enter Neverstill, a newly opened tasting room on Warren Street, Hudson’s main drag, that spotlights its eponymous vineyard’s wines, as well as other locally sourced beverages and charcuterie boards. It’s all in a charming setting that offers a warm, “what’s your hurry?” vibe.
Christy Counts, the owner and president of Neverstill Wines, says it was Hudson or bust when she decided to open her wine bar. A Westchester resident whose wine is produced near the Finger Lakes, she’s been Hudson’s number-one fan for quite some time. “I figured if I couldn’t move here right now [she has school-age kids], I could at least work here,” she says. Her love of Hudson is evident as she lists her favorite things: the people, the artisans, the creativity, the energy, and the architecture.
Her path to Warren Street proprietorship didn’t happen overnight. Her career in wine unfolded a few years ago, as she pivoted from business and nonprofit management to pursue a passion that took hold as soon as she was old enough to explore the universe of wines. The pandemic gave her time to delve in deeply, taking courses and earning certifications.
Partnering with winemaker Nova Cadamatre, Counts developed Neverstill with grapes grown on seven acres near Seneca Lake. “We decided that the future of the wine industry may just be on the East Coast due to climate change,” she says.
The pair introduced their first wines over the summer: a dry Riesling with notes of peach, apricot, and Meyer lemon, and a crisp, citrusy Chenin blanc. A Reserve Riesling is soon to be released, along with rosé, Pét-Nat, and Cab Franc over the course of the next year.
The brand’s commitment to sustainability runs deep. Neverstill earned its New York Sustainable Wine Growing certificate, thanks to its use of lightweight bottles and the lack of foil capsules around the cork, which are purely decorative and contribute to waste. The certificate also documents that Neverstill minimizes greenhouse gases, prioritizes biodiversity, and protects its workers’ health and safety.
Just producing wine, however, wasn’t enough for Counts. She wanted to honor a simple truth: “Wine has this incredible power to bring people together for amazing moments,” she says. Hence the space on Warren Street.
Memories of her Oklahoma childhood provided a blueprint for Neverstill’s tasting room. Counts’ parents had a marble-topped bar in the entry of their home, surrounded by comfortable seating and artwork. “Friends and family would stop by for a drink, conversation, and the sense of community. That’s what I want Neverstill to be.”
The soft and inviting design of Neverstill’s tasting room was created by Hudson-based designer Amy Ilias (Former EVP of Art & Design at ABC Carpet & Home). Ilias mixed new and old pieces—many of the antiques were purchased in and around Hudson.
The work of Valley artists will be on rotating display and for sale. When it came to what to put on the walls, Counts wanted to stay hyper-local. “We have some of the best artists in the world, right there in Hudson,” says Counts.
It’s worth noting that the company’s name is Hudson Valley-centric: It pays homage to an early moniker for the Hudson River, which translates as “water that is never still.” Cheers to that!
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