They say good things happen in threes — so it’s no surprise that Gianni Scappin’s latest venture is a gem. Located right across the street from Vassar College, Gusto brings the casually sophisticated ambiance and fresh, flavorful food that are the hallmarks of Scappin’s other two restaurants to a more diverse, urban audience.
“It’s very much Mediterranean cooking,” he says. “We’re guided by the seasons. We use a lot of olive oil, not much butter or cream. Super simple, fresh ingredients that speak for themselves. Al dente — nothing overcooked.”
A variety of new dishes have been added to the thin crust pizzas, creative salads, hearty pastas, meats, and seafood that have made its sister restaurants — Cucina in Woodstock and Market Street in Rhinebeck — so popular. One standout: a lighter, Northern Italian-style lasagna made with a wonderful, slightly nutty béchamel sauce and spinach pasta.
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Some of the offerings at Gusto |
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The bar features new specialty cocktails like the lemon thyme vodka soda. The Chancellor is a surprisingly tasty mix of bourbon, honey syrup, jalapeño, lemon, cardamom, and nutmeg. “It’s very creative, very Brooklyn. We do our own syrups in-house, nothing bottled, and no corn syrup,” says Scappin.
Gusto’s larger space offers its patrons several seating options. After checking out the specials listed on the chalkboard, you can grab a table or sit at the marble-topped bar that anchors one end of the buzzing, slightly noisy room. Or head upstairs to the big, airy dining room, where blond wood floors, tables, and chairs combine with rustic linen curtains and old-fashioned light fixtures for a quieter, more peaceful dining experience. In the warmer months, you can also enjoy the sunshine at one of the bright red bistro tables on the stone patio.
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Scappin, an open, gregarious man in his mid-50s, was one of the first Italian chefs to take New York City by storm in the 1980s. He’s since honed his Mediterranean-inspired style through years of travel, cooking, and teaching, including his ongoing role as an instructor of advanced Italian cooking at the Culinary Institute. “I was always a gypsy by soul, still am,” says the chef. “But now that I’m older, I have to keep my feet on the ground.”
Luckily for us, Scappin has chosen to plant himself firmly in the fertile ground of the Valley, which reminds him of Mason Vicentino, the small Italian town where he grew up.
The Crowd: You’ll find a mix of locals, professionals, doctors from nearby hospitals, professors from Vassar, a few students (possibly with visiting parents in tow), and hipsters drawn by the local food and creative cocktails.
Don’t Miss: Order the salumi plate to share. The caprina pizza (fig spread, goat cheese, thinly sliced pear, and arugula) is a beautiful marriage of sweet and savory. Salty rosemary shoestring fries with herbed aïoli that accompany the burger or steak are addictive; linguine with shrimp and the meatballs never disappoint; and for dessert, the creamy butterscotch budino.
The Basics: Lunch, brunch, and dinner daily. Appetizers and salads $7-$12, pizzas and pastas $13-$17, entrées $16-$29; three course prix-fixe menu from $29
If you go…
Gusto
15 Collegeview Ave., Poughkeepsie
845-454-8200; www.gustopk.com
