Five years ago, Josh Mahan was a man who had it all. Professional success in the tech sector, a rock-solid marriage to wife Amy, and the happy news of a baby on the way. In other words, he says, “Things were good.” Meanwhile, in his spare time, Mahan had gotten into whiskey as a hobby. (No wonder, since he had grown up watching his father, grandfather, and other Irish relatives trade sips and stories whenever family gathered.) At some point he thought about what it would be like to make his own.
As it happened, small-purveyor wines and spirits—very much a thing in the Hudson Valley—were surging in popularity. According to Mahan, the reason for the uptick was two-fold: general local entrepreneurialism and creativity, and legislative changes that loosened up some specific New York State laws, making it a little easier to legally manufacture and distribute alcohol. Mahan was game to try his hand.
He started learning all he could about the ins and outs of making whiskey. Books and videos provided basic background info and instruction, but his real education began when he tapped into the local craft spirits community. “Everyone is super passionate and extremely cooperative with one another,” says Mahan. “There’s a ton of headwind from the big mass producers and we all understand how difficult it is to get a small business of this nature up and running. Everyone sticks together and roots for each other.”
95 percent of bourbon is made in Kentucky, but it can be made anywhere in the U.S.
Things were slowly but surely moving along when Mahan and his wife welcomed a baby girl they named Pepper. However, their new-parent bliss was cut short when Pepper suffered a stroke just two days post-delivery. “As terrifying as that sounds, it was actually ten times worse,” Mahan recalls. Doctors cautioned them against too much optimism, running down long lists of potential problems, leaving little hope that Pepper would recover and learn to talk, walk, and live life as a healthy child. “I immediately pressed pause on the business to be fully present for my wife and little girl,” he recalls. Amazingly, over months and against all odds, Pepper started to get better. “She defied every scary prognosis they gave us.” She still has some lingering health issues, but nothing resembling those initial warnings. As the family happily settled into life as a party of three, Mahan found some time and mental bandwidth to return to his beloved side hustle.
Up until then, the business lacked a name. “My wife and I had tossed around some ideas, but nothing felt like it really fit,” Mahan says. Then it hit him: Fat Baby Bourbon. “Pepper was a chubby baby,” he laughs. “She was also a fighter and showed tremendous determination. It just clicked for us.”
As Pepper has grown and defied expectations, so, too, has Fat Baby. Its flavor profile is a robust balance of spice, honey, and vanilla, with a smooth finish. Since by law bourbon must age for a minimum of two years, and many producers opt for much longer, the first batch of bottles went on sale this past summer. Mahan’s distillery is part of a shared space in Glenville, where he enjoys the camaraderie of other small-batch producers. “Under the same roof, it’s easy to get help if you need,” he says. “People can brainstorm, pitch in on distilling day, or share supplies. It’s all for one and one for all.”
Ultimately, the story of Fat Baby and Pepper’s health scare are inexorably intertwined. “Her spirit and strength taught us anything is possible and to savor the good moments in life,” Mahan reflects. In his case, that means small-batch bourbon over a large ice cube.
Follow their Instagram @fatbabybourbon or fatbabybourbon.com.
Q: What Is Bourbon?
A: A specific type of American whiskey made from at least 51 percent corn and aged in new oak barrels for a minimum of two years. Most brands age for double that or longer.
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