Consistently found at or near the top of the Zagat ratings for service, décor, and — most importantly — food, Peter X. Kelly’s intimate Rockland County restaurant is fine dining at its finest. The New American menu features dishes one might encounter in a European country setting, such as this red-tail venison, which is pan-seared with a juniper and dried ginger crust, and served with a classic French Grand Veneur (or “huntsman’s”) sauce.