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How does one go from being a philosophy major to an organic baker? It’s a question Daniel Leader, the trailblazing founder of Bread Alone, has gotten many times in his 50-year career. Now retired and living in northern Maine, he answers that and more in his new book—his sixth—which he says is his most autobiographical.
A Slow Rise: Favorite Recipes from Four Decades of Baking with Heart (find it on Amazon or Barnes and Noble), which is being released October 15, is not only his most personal work, it’s also the first one that features not just bread recipes, but pastry items such as tarts and pies.
Why the change? Leader, who opened his Boiceville bakery in 1983 before eventually expanding to Rhinebeck and Woodstock, chalks it up to his new life—he retired five years ago, handing the reins to his son, though he remains involved—and to being reflective. He also wanted to answer some of the questions he’s been asked over the decades, especially as so much in the bread world has changed.
“Forty years ago, the idea that we could buy locally grown wheat wasn’t even on our radar,” he says, noting how very few people were aware of all the different types of bread. “No one knew what a baguette was or sourdough or a ciabatta.”
And while time—and certainly the pandemic—helped change that (raise your hand if you got into sourdough baking in 2020), he wanted to share his thoughts on making simple and soul-fulfilling food. (Hint: Rely more on your senses than science.)
In the book, Leader, who’s known for pioneering artisan baking long before organic was a certification, tracks his initial fascination with bread in the ‘70s and ends with discussions about responsible, environmentally sensitive farming. In between, there’s reams of information on equipment, ingredients, and, of course, recipes, in addition to anecdotes, personal photos, and an interesting story about the time he went to Paris to compete in The Grand Prix De La Baguette.
We did a virtual sit-down with Leader—him on his front porch (post morning coffee) and me at my desk (suddenly craving a croissant)—to find out more.
Key takeaway from the book: “I just want to encourage people to bake really delicious bread and incorporate it into their lives and enjoy the process. With all the craziness going on in the world today, I think bread baking can be really soothing and enriching.”
Can a novice do it? “Yes. I like to say baking bread is like gardening; it’s not hard. It just requires attention.”
How often do you bake? “It goes in spurts; I tend to be baking whole grain breads these days but that changes. I would say I bake once or twice a week. After running Bread Alone which was a 24 hour a day, seven day a week activity, I’m still figuring out retirement.”
Response to those cutting carbs: “I can only speak from experience as I’m not a nutritionist, but complex carbs are an important part of a healthy diet.”
Possibility for a bakery in Maine? “I’m asked that a lot, but I think 50 years in the food business and 50 years baking bread is enough.”
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