This past year, I spent endless hours searching for just the right paint color for our bedroom. I waffled between seemingly hundreds of shades of chocolate brown, golden yellow, and brick red. Red, the experts told me, would be both invigorating and sensual; the downside is that it can make it difficult to relax. But after spending five days at the Red Mountain Spa — the ultra-luxurious destination spa and resort in St. George, Utah — I find that utterly impossible to believe. Being surrounded by a ring of stunning stark red mountains set the stage for one of the most relaxing experiences I’ve had in years. And this unique spa adventure is intricately connected to the magical topography that surrounds it.
Red Mountain, which opened in 1998, is best known for its extensive hiking program. Each morning, groups of hikers ranging from beginners to advanced head out to explore the surrounding desert and the famous fiery red Navaho sandstone formations. And while I’ve always loved hiking, I’ve silently scoffed at the notion of being connected to the earth (Scarlett O’Hara’s rants about Tara notwithstanding). But I must admit that after several days of these morning treks — during which we walked through black lava flows, studied cacti, and marveled at petroglyphs — I found myself believing that the rocks (dare I say it?) were exerting a powerful influence over me. “People say it is enchanting here,” says Tracey Welsh, the spa’s general manager. “While many guests do come for the fitness programs [which include biking, rock climbing, and kayaking], more and more are opening themselves up to our self-improvement programming. It’s such a stressful time, what with the economy, and people are open to alternative ways of coping.”
Clockwise from above left: Outdoor adventure activities are one of the spa’s main draws; guests can stay in one of 82 rooms or 24 villa suites; sometimes, guests enter the Spiral Circle Walk after being smudged with the smoke of white sage - Advertisement -
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Take, for instance, the popular fire ceremony, which is held twice a week at sunset. Participants write their intentions on a scroll and then toss it into the fire. A Native American flute player often accompanies the service — and the plaintive wail soon leads you to forget about life’s more mundane trivialities (like choosing paint colors) and makes you believe you’re capable of much greater things. “Some guests who come are grieving over a loved one or their health, and they want to move forward. We’re finding it to be a very emotional release,” says Welsh.
The spa offers up a dizzying array of exercise classes: tai chi on the rocks, cardio salsa, balletone, and at least six different types of yoga among them. There are also specially organized programs for detoxification and weight loss. One morning I skipped the hike and opted instead for a Nordic walking class. My very buff and cheery instructor, whom I’ll call Greg, informed me that swinging the ski-like poles could help me burn up to 40 percent more calories than regular walking. We headed up a hill leading to Snow Canyon State Park — yet another stunning vista of pure rust-colored rock and petrified sand dunes — and chatted about the good life in southwestern Utah while Greg worked in vain to ensure that I was swinging the correct arm while striding with the correct leg. Another afternoon, I took a mountain bike out by myself and rode through the park, where I was sufficiently awed by the immenseness of the land.
But the highlight of my outdoor adventures was an all-day hike to nearby Zion National Park. At the risk of overusing a well-worn cliché, this park is truly a national treasure that should not be missed. While I marveled at such things as Kolob Arch, one of the largest natural arches in the world (and secretly worried about spotting a tarantula), I was most impressed by one of our guides. Lew Roberts has white hair, but that is the only clue that this powerhouse of a man is 81 years old. So what’s his secret? “I don’t take vitamins and I don’t believe in diets (although I do eat light),” he says. “But the secret to my success has been a good, hard hour of exercise every day.”
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Speaking of eating: I’m happy to report that the food at the spa was downright delicious; that it was probably the healthiest fare I’ve ever consumed was just an added bonus. Breakfast and lunch are offered buffet style, and most dishes are marked with their nutritional breakdown; dinner is served as a sit-down meal. And I was thrilled to discover that, unlike Canyon Ranch (the mother of all luxury destination spas), wine and beer are available. Each evening I sat at the community table. I soon realized that while I felt a three-hour morning hike followed by an afternoon exercise session should be rewarded with a two-hour poolside lounge, many guests seemed to be running themselves ragged trying to squeeze in as many activities as possible. Some of my dinner companions wanted only to discuss deep breathing techniques (I was too ashamed to admit that I don’t do yoga — not at all, not ever). On another evening, I discussed romance and politics with a sarcastic Toronto lawyer who even encouraged me to have a second glass of wine.
The spa treatments are as wonderful and varied as you would expect. I indulged in a fusion massage and a raw-earth pedicure — I only giggled a little bit when a peaceful young woman exfoliated my tired feet with a raw-sugar scrub. Every night after dinner, I power-walked around the property and waited for the sun to submerge itself behind the glowing red cliff; afterwards, I retreated to my room (decorated in earth tones to achieve understated luxury), showered, and slipped into the oversized fluffy robe provided to each guest.
The Sagestone Spa and |
On the morning that I left for the two-hour drive back to Las Vegas, I thought about the spa’s greatest appeal: less austere than a yoga retreat, fewer desperate housewives then many other luxury spas, Red Mountain offers serenity in a spectacularly scenic locale. That it is one of the most affordable of the luxury spas just sweetens the deal. Recently, the resort began collaborating with a nearby animal shelter, so guests can walk the shelter’s dogs along the beautiful base of the big red rocks. “We now have more guests who want to do this than walkable dogs,” says Welch.
Massages, mystical rocks, and dogs, too. I think I’ll be back. But first I must paint the bedroom red.
Red Mountain Spa, www.redmountainspa.com, 1-877-246-HIKE
Closer to home…
Anti-aging treatments are all the rage at many local spas. Here are a few that intrigue us.
- At Haven Spa in Rhinebeck, the “Environ Intensive Facial” uses a specialized physician-designed machine that emits treatment-enhancing radio waves.
- The “Anti-Aging-Antioxidant” facial at Buttermilk Falls Inn & Spa in Milton uses Jurlique products and includes vitamin C, grape seed, and green tea, which break down pesky age-inducing free radicals. Neroli oil helps to reduce under-eye puffiness and fine lines.
- Wellness Springs Holistic Day Spa in Highland Mills also uses Jurlique products, but offers an anti-aging solution for below the neck, which moisturizes and exfoliates to rejuvenate skin. The spa’s founder and director, Dr. Maria Perri, says it’s “like a facial for the entire body.”
- The “Tourmaline Charged Radiant Facial” at Poughkeepsie’s Marlene Weber Day Spa uses a blend of essential oils and crushed tourmaline gemstone to enhance skin’s radiance and reduce fine lines. According to Marlene Weber, the tourmaline gemstone is charged with a natural energy that gives skin a subtle glow, and is perfect for customers who want results without the complete process of microdermabrasion.
- Technology developed by NASA is used in the anti-aging LED light “Lumi” facials at River Rock Health Spa in Woodstock.